Bmw starts then shuts off

Bmw starts then shuts off DEFAULT

Engine stalling

Hi from a little old lady with a series 3 BMW 2004 with a random stalling problem. Either the engine stalls and the battery light comes on, momentarily or sometimes lights up like a Christmas tree and have to stop and restart it. I am retired and live in a rural area and really need this car and little money to replace it or pay a huge garage bill. Read all on here and got depressed but fortunately spent a lot of time working on old cars when I was a kid with my dad and picked up a few tips. Car does not do a lot of miles but it is 6 miles to the nearest shop! So, I lifted the bonnet and hit everything that looked electrical with WD40 getting a marginal improvement. Thought I would try another tip on here Redex! 11 miles to the shop, thought I would give it a try. Then thought have a look at the battery, opened up the compartment and noticed the cover on the positive lug had a bit of heat warping. Took it off, leads and lugs did not look damp but felt a bit damp. hit the leads with the WD40 and the lugs, closed up and set off. Guess what? Half way there and no problems all the way there, no problems, thought get the Redex anyway, filled up popped it in and can only say Flew home! though it could be a fluke, so left it a while and went for a drive absolute magic! Not saying this is your answer but with all the wet weather and an aged car give it a go before you try replacing everything and/or the car. Still going fine!

1 people found this helpful.

Mark helpful

Sours: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t37537_ds525609

188shares

(Updated on May 4, 2020)

When you attempt to start your car, you normally assume it is going to start without any problems. You’ll hear the engine turning and everything will seem fine. However, there may come a point in time when your car will actually start but then die almost immediately afterward.

There is never a convenient time for your car to suddenly quit working on you when you have somewhere to go. The only thing you can do is figure out what happened, then fix the problem as soon as possible.

Diagnosing a no start or sudden stall condition is often difficult, as there could be many possible causes. This guide is intended to help you narrow down the problem, and possibly even fix the issue yourself.

Common Reasons a Car Starts Then Shuts Off

There are many reasons why your car would start and then stop immediately. If you’ve attempted to start the vehicle a couple times without success, you should avoid trying again so you don’t burn out the starter or flood the engine; you don’t want to risk making more problems for yourself.

1) Bad Idle Air Control Valve

bad idle air control valve

An idle air control valve (IAC) regulates the air fuel mixture of a vehicle at idle. It also manages the idle under changing engine loads, like when you kick on the air conditioning, turn on the headlights, or turn up the radio.

When the idle air control valve malfunctions, you may experience a rough idle or the vehicle may stall entirely. This is especially true on cold starts.

You can try cleaning the idle air control valve to see if it resolves the problem. Sometimes there is an electrical issue inside the idle air control valve that prevents the valve from operating properly.

Many electrical issues of this nature are possible to test for using a multimeter. If the root cause is an electrical problem within the idle air control valve itself, you will likely have to replace the IAC.

2) Bad Vacuum Leak

vacuum hoses

A vacuum leak is a hole in a vehicle’s air intake system behind the mass air flow (MAF) sensor that allows unmetered air into the engine. This throws off the expected air fuel ratio and causes the vehicle to run lean.

If you have a bad vacuum leak, the air fuel ratio will end up being way too lean (too much air) which could cause the vehicle to stall.

Normally a car will still run with minor vacuum leaks, but if the leak is severe, the fuel injectors may not be able to keep up with all the extra unmetered air in the system for a proper burn in the combustion chamber.

You may be able to pop the hood and find something that’s noticeably out of place, such as a vacuum line that has torn or disconnected. If you don’t have any immediately apparent leaks, you can perform a smoke test to find the exact source of the leak.

During a smoke test, a mechanic pumps smoke into the intake system. This smoke will seep out from any holes in the intake system and tell you very quickly if air is able to enter the intake system where it should not be.

A vehicle that uses a speed density system for engine management will have a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor instead of a MAF sensor. These vehicles will raise the idle as if the throttle plate were open when they have a vacuum leak, and are unlikely to stall.

3) Dirty or Faulty MAF Sensor

bad maf sensor

A mass air flow (MAF) sensor is responsible for measuring the amount of air entering the engine on most vehicles. A MAF sensor is very sensitive. Dirt and oil buildup that has blown past the engine air filter can easily foul the sensor. A dirty sensor will often read incorrect air measurements, throwing off the air fuel ratio.

Cleaning this sensor with a dedicated MAF sensor cleaner may solve the issue. If not, test the MAF sensor to see if it’s gone bad and replace if necessary.

If you use an aftermarket air intake, make sure you don’t apply too much oil on the air filter. Excessive oil may blow past the filter and gum up the MAF sensor.

Note: Only use MAF sensor cleaner to clean a MAF sensor. Do not touch the sensor directly or clean it with other methods.

4) Ignition Issue

dirty spark plug

The ignition system is responsible for generating the spark that ignites the mixture of air and fuel in the internal combustion chamber.

If you were to have any issues in your ignition system, like with the spark plugs or even the car battery, then the spark might not be sufficient enough to achieve complete combustion in the combustion  chamber. This could cause the car to die, if it starts at all.

Make sure you have a solid connection at the battery with no corrosion on the terminals. If there is excessive corrosion, try cleaning the terminals. A battery terminal cleaner is made specifically for this purpose and makes the job easier.

Check to make sure your spark plug wires or ignition coils are seated properly on each of the spark plugs. A detached or malfunctioning spark plug wire will cause misfires and often a stall as the engine struggles to stay running on fewer cylinders. 

Next, check your spark plugs to make sure they look healthy, and replace them if necessary.

5) Bad Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensor

bad camshaft position sensor

Crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are designed to inform the ECU where the crankshaft and/or camshafts are at all times. This allows the ECU to coordinate the firing of the spark plugs (ignition timing) with the position of the rotating assembly.

If the ECU can’t get a clear signal, the engine may fail to start or die immediately after starting.

Your ECU should throw a check engine light if there is no signal from the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors. Get this code read if you can, as it may tell you the exact wire that is causing the issue.

Inspect the connectors on the crankshaft/camshaft position sensors to ensure there is no corrosion or bare metal on the wires, particularly behind the connector on the engine harness side.

On some vehicles, excessive signal noise or interference could cause issues with the crankshaft position sensor. Spark plug wires are a source of electromagnetic interference (EMF), but this is usually only a problem on some aftermarket setups when this interference isn’t taken into account.

6) Slipped Timing Belt/Timing Chain

bad timing belt

A timing belt or chain that has skipped a tooth will throw off the cam timing, causing the intake and/or exhaust valves to open at the wrong time. Incorrect cam timing may lead to a rough idle, misfires, or a stalled engine.

A skipped tooth could be caused by a belt that was too loose, either due to a failed tensioner or incorrect tensioning procedures.

A camshaft gear that has slipped on the camshaft may exhibit similar symptoms, but is harder to diagnose. This is because a slipped gear will still allow the timing marks to line up, despite the timing being off.

If you know the correct angle of the cam lobes, you will know something is off by the angle of the cam lobes with respect to the cam gear timing marks. 

Correcting either of these issues usually requires about as much effort as replacing the timing belt, though some cams are accessible to experienced mechanics without doing the full timing belt teardown.

If your vehicle has an “interference engine”, the piston or valves could contact each other if the timing isn’t lined up correctly. On these engines, it is imperative to correct the issue as soon as possible to avoid catastrophic engine damage.

7) Fuel Pump Leak

bad fuel pump

If there is any kind of leak in your fuel pump or fuel injection system, it will create problems for the internal combustion process. The engine requires the right amount of air and fuel to mix together for ignition.

If there is a fuel leak somewhere, then the correct amount of fuel may not make it to the combustion chamber. This might be enough to allow the engine to start, but not keep running.

8) Fuel Injection Sensor Issue

fuel injector pressure sensor

The fuel injectors require a certain amount of pressure so that they can inject the right amount of fuel into the internal combustion chamber. The engine control unit communicates with the fuel injector through the sensor that is attached to it.

The sensor keeps track of the amount of pressure in the fuel injector and then transmits this information to the engine control unit. From there, this computer modifies the pressure accordingly.

However, if there is a problem or issue with the fuel injector sensor, the engine will not receive the right amount of fuel for a proper combustion. This could lead to a starting car that dies right away.

Fuel injectors can also clog, which would affect their spray pattern and ability to inject the correct amount of fuel.

9) Bad Carburetor

bad carburetor

The carburetor is a very important component of the internal combustion process on older vehicles that do not use electronic fuel injection. It is responsible for properly adjusting the air fuel ratio to achieve efficient combustion.

If you have a bad carburetor that is malfunctioning for some reason, it will likely throw off the ratio of air and fuel. 

10) Engine Control Unit Issue

bad ecu

An engine control unit, engine control module, or powertrain control module (ECU, ECM, or PCM respectively) is the computer that manages the main engine parameters and programming for the vehicle. Although rare, it is possible for the ECU to malfunction and cause a stall. Generally, an ECU failure will be accompanied with several electrical systems malfunctions, such as missing or invalid sensor readings.

One potential problem that could arise is the inability to control the fuel injection system correctly. This might cause problems keeping the car running after you start it up.

Conclusion

There are many possible causes for a stall immediately after startup. However, it is possible to narrow down the problem to a single component or system to ease the diagnostic process.

While troubleshooting yourself, it helps to have a repair manual or online forum handy for your specific make and model. Some vehicles are more prone to certain issues, and forums contain good information for pinpointing these.

If you do not feel confident in your ability to diagnose the stall yourself, have the vehicle towed to a mechanic you trust for a proper diagnosis and repair.

Sours: https://oards.com/causes-of-a-car-starts-then-dies-immediately/
  1. Meme reaction images
  2. Timers avr
  3. Nintendo 2013
  4. Project 64 ocarina of time 60fps
  5. Expressway chevy
Lieutenant Colonel

Drives: 325XI

Join Date: May 2010

Location: Earth

Try this, disconnect your MAF sensor connector. Then try to start the engine. If engine starts and idles well, your problem is likely a somewhat big vacuum leak throwing off the computer to calculate correct air fuel ratio for idling. If MAF disconnect doesn't change anything then you can check the ECC connector if it has oil that is at the valve cover. If it does have valve cover it is very likely toast. The ECU not likely toast though, unless the oil travelled down the wires of ECC all the way down to ECU.
First replace the ECC, then if you still have problems then consider ECU replacement. Your 325Xi's ECU is easy to be cloned on a used ECU from ebay or salvage yard.

If MAF disconnect is causing good idle, then most likely vacuum leak is the broken/cracked breather hose from valve cover to oil separator inside the folds of the manifold. Other likely vacuum leak is torn diaphragm inside the oil separator valve. You can test this by removing its vent nipple covering piece and then close it with your thumb and see if this changes engine idle issue. Another way to test this is when engine is off put a small hose on that vent nipple, blow gently to the oil separator valve. You should be able to only blow air into it for a very short time, that would make it move down a bit to close the valve. But not anymore. If you could blow air for more than a split second, the diaphragm is torn which will leak air vacuum in.
There is possibility but less likely unless some work was done that meant removing and putting them back, the oil return hose from oil separator valve into the oil pan could have cracked and leaking vacuum. You can test this also, assuming oil separator valve is fine, its diaphragm is not torn. But will need another person to keep the RPM's up for engine not to die. Put a small enough hose at the oil separator vent nipple again. Blow on it that will cause the diaphragm to close the valve and keep pressure to keep the valve closed. If there was a vacuum leak going down to oil pan, this will close that section and leak will stop. You don't want to hold that valve closed to long, because if there is no leak, the crank case pressure will rise and will want to go out from somewhere.

If you end up with vacuum leak and fixed your issue, but if you did have oil at the ECC connector, consider changing it sometime soon.

Sours: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1501415
⭐ 2000 BMW 328i - Starts Then Stalls Out - How To Check Fuel Pressure
Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum - Powered by vBulletin

  • Home
  • 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44)
  • Engine Starts Then Dies Immediately!

  1. 03-08-2008, 05:09 PM#1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    1993 325i DOHC

    Engine Starts Then Dies Immediately!

    Ok. My car was running fine. one day my mom was driving my car and it ran out of gas. The car would start... idle eratically then die. So i changed my spark plugs... on one of the coil plugs i pulled out it was full of oil. still... the car starts..... then dies... in some instances it does stay on it will idle for about 30 seconds.... then the idle will bounce then shut off. Anyone experience this problem??? help me pleeeeeaaase =(

  2. 03-08-2008, 07:46 PM#2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    San Jose,CA
    Posts
    7
    My Cars
    89 325is, 86 635csi, 93 325is
    Mine did the exact same thing.. Check the oyegen sensor relay. Its the relay in the upper most right hand corner of the fuse box. I went nuts trying to figure out what was worng. Hope this helps..

  3. 03-08-2008, 08:10 PM#3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Chair, England, United Kingdom.
    Posts
    4,066
    My Cars
    Many in the worshop.
    Check for air leaks first of all, split pipes or breathers. You could also do the pedal stomp test. Do a search on it if you are not sure
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  4. 03-08-2008, 09:56 PM#4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    1993 325i DOHC
    Quote Originally Posted by TefalView Post
    Check for air leaks first of all, split pipes or breathers. You could also do the pedal stomp test. Do a search on it if you are not sure
    The pedal test didnt work. i tried putting the fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank. i would get the car running.... steady idle... then i would rev the engine like ever minute or so. the idle was fine after that. I had the car running for about 20 minutes... (only because I was reving the motor every minute) then i turned off the car. started it again and it idled fine. did this twice. as soon as I went to drive it it shut off and when I started the car it started all over. (died imediately) I guess its when the RPM dropes below idle it shuts off. As for the leaks... the only leak I can hear seems to be coming from that catalytic converter or wherever the exhaust leak is coming from.

  5. 03-08-2008, 10:13 PM#5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Northern VA
    Posts
    504
    My Cars
    1998 528i
    I had a similar problem last week after putting my intake manifold back on, the ICV Tee was not fully inserted into the underside of the intake. The result was exactly what you describe. I was able to stick it in and thats all it needed. You should check that.
    One time when I was starting my car, I let off the key accidently too soon and the engine backfired as it was dieing out. The backfire knocked off the ICV Tee fitting. In fact it broke the lock tab off it too. The car then would have the same problem you have.

    You can find it by feeling under the throttle body and on the intake directly behind the throttle body.

  6. 03-09-2008, 09:28 AM#6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Chair, England, United Kingdom.
    Posts
    4,066
    My Cars
    Many in the worshop.
    Quote Originally Posted by SlightlyStoopidView Post
    The pedal test didnt work. As for the leaks... the only leak I can hear seems to be coming from that catalytic converter or wherever the exhaust leak is coming from.
    When you say it didn't work, there were no codes or you couldn't get the engine light flashing?
    Also where is the exhaust blow from? If it's before the Lambda sensors it will not help with the way your car runs
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  7. 03-09-2008, 09:37 AM#7
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    NYC/NJ
    Posts
    1,825
    My Cars
    2003 TiAg 325iT
    i just had the same problems. For me, it turned out that the fuel pump was dead. it wouldnt flow past idle.
    eeeks!

    ---"Angelina" '96 328isA S/C (The *sirius* ubercommuter) ERT/Vortech V2SQ with other goodies
    "Man, your car is scary fast...." *Prestige BMW, Jan.18, 2003* (sold )

    ---"theStealth" '03 TiAg 325iT

    ---ZURV1 (Zombie Urban Response Vehicle) 2010 Chevy Surburban

    ---bmwcca member # 179740

  8. 03-09-2008, 09:38 AM#8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    planet earth
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    e36 and audi a6
    sounds like idle valve is not working? will the car stay running if you keep your foot on the gas?

  9. 03-11-2008, 12:24 AM#9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    1993 325i DOHC
    yah it stays on if i keep messing with the gas. sometimes its running... then all of a sudden it will bounce and turn off... other times it will almost die then sound like a go-kart for a while and return to idle. then the process keeps repeating. i took off the hose from the throttle body to the air box... with the 2 smaller hoses coming out from the bottom... one of those little hoses has a small tear.... would this affect it that much? also the throttle body had some gunk inside. ahhhh! too much. i dont wanna go to the shop. i just spent $1500 on labor...

    as for the stomp test. the engine like wouldnt flash. i tried that again today.

    as for the air leak it sounds like its coming from around the Catalytic converter area.

    damn fellas... thanks a lot. this is very much appreciated. more than you know.
    Last edited by SlightlyStoopid; 03-11-2008 at 07:06 PM.

  10. 03-11-2008, 12:31 AM#10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sandy Eggo, CA
    Posts
    7,859
    My Cars
    E46 330i
    Quote Originally Posted by steveng1993View Post
    I had a similar problem last week after putting my intake manifold back on, the ICV Tee was not fully inserted into the underside of the intake. The result was exactly what you describe. I was able to stick it in and thats all it needed. You should check that.
    One time when I was starting my car, I let off the key accidently too soon and the engine backfired as it was dieing out. The backfire knocked off the ICV Tee fitting. In fact it broke the lock tab off it too. The car then would have the same problem you have.

    You can find it by feeling under the throttle body and on the intake directly behind the throttle body.

    +1

  11. 03-11-2008, 01:12 AM#11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    139
    My Cars
    S2000
    Hey kind of had hte same problem it was my fuel tank it was only and had to be replaced and when it did it started fine.

  12. 03-11-2008, 01:13 AM#12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    139
    My Cars
    S2000
    Sorry I meant it was OLD and had to be replaced.

  13. 03-11-2008, 01:22 AM#13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Seattle, wa
    Posts
    398
    My Cars
    2000 750il
    do u mean fuel pump? i dont see how a fuel tank can go bad...

  14. 03-11-2008, 08:02 AM#14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Cockeysville, MD
    Posts
    628
    My Cars
    97 318is lowered, 98 TJ jacked up
    'subscribed'

    Having same issues!

  15. 03-11-2008, 08:37 AM#15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Pelham, NH, USA
    Posts
    476
    My Cars
    325is,328i,Ranger
    If it stays running if its given gas its most likely a stuck ICV

  16. 03-11-2008, 06:27 PM#16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Chair, England, United Kingdom.
    Posts
    4,066
    My Cars
    Many in the worshop.
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  17. 03-11-2008, 07:53 PM#17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    1993 325i DOHC
    is the ICV the same as the idle speed control valve?
    my car looks a lot different then the ones in the picture. i have a 93 325i... the DOHC... inline 6 and it looks way different that those pics in the DIY photos. anyone have a DIY for my car? to remove the upper intake manifold??

  18. 03-11-2008, 09:55 PM#18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    MN, USA
    Posts
    556
    My Cars
    2007 328xi
    Retired - 1992 325i black/black
    Sigh - boring cars
    Current - 2007 328xi

    "The official thread starter of the "Official thread ender" Thread"

  19. 03-13-2008, 08:08 AM#19
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Cockeysville, MD
    Posts
    628
    My Cars
    97 318is lowered, 98 TJ jacked up
    I'm being told my problem is a camshaft position sensor, has anyone had issues like this and that been the problem?

    Thanks,
    Matt

  20. 04-10-2008, 12:47 AM#20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    1993 325i DOHC
    after cleaning the ICV it ran fine... for a day. then the same problem came back. by any change does anyone have a diagram of all the vaccum hoses for inspection? and... whats that relay to check?

  21. 04-10-2008, 05:36 PM#21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    227
    My Cars
    BMW 325i 92
    try fuel relay. Sounds like thats going bad.

  22. 04-10-2008, 06:32 PM#22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Chair, England, United Kingdom.
    Posts
    4,066
    My Cars
    Many in the worshop.
    Quote Originally Posted by SlightlyStoopidView Post
    i took off the hose from the throttle body to the air box... with the 2 smaller hoses coming out from the bottom... one of those little hoses has a small tear.... would this affect it that much?
    Did you end up fixing this pipe? You should if you haven't
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  23. 04-11-2008, 03:39 PM#23
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Cockeysville, MD
    Posts
    628
    My Cars
    97 318is lowered, 98 TJ jacked up
    My fix was my camshaft postion sensor...

  24. 04-11-2008, 06:24 PM#24
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Posts
    468
    My Cars
    1992 325i
    I am going out on a limb here, but I think it may be related to your fuel pump. The pump is cooled by the fuel and when you run the tank dry there isn't any fuel to cool the pump and they sometimes fail.

  25. 04-11-2008, 07:57 PM#25
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    3,800
    My Cars
    96 328is, 01 M5

Quick Navigation1991 - 1999 (E36)GoTop
  • Site Areas
  • Settings
  • Private Messages
  • Subscriptions
  • Who's Online
  • Search Forums
  • Forums Home
  • Forums
  • General BMW Discussion
    1. General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines
      1. BMW Employee and Technician Talk
    2. BMW Rides & Events
    3. Lighting sponsored by BAVToys
    4. Forced Induction
      1. For Sale Parts Classifieds
    5. Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by Bimmerparts.com
      1. Track Car Builds
      2. Drag Racing
      3. Drifting
    6. Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld
    7. Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by eBMWParts.com
    8. Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack
      1. Wheels & Tires For Sale / Wanted
    9. Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound
    10. Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.net
    11. General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts
    12. Engine Conversions
    13. Engine Tuning
    14. Diagnostic Software
    15. Kill Stories
  • BMW Models
    1. 1 Series & 2 Series (E81, E82, E87, E88, F20, F22, F23, F40, G42)
      1. 1 Series M Coupe
      2. 2016+ M2
    2. 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44)
      1. 1975 - 1983 (E21)
      2. 1983 - 1991 (E30)
      3. 1991 - 1999 (E36)
      4. 1999 - 2006 (E46)
      5. 2006 - 2012 (E90, E91, E92, E93)
      6. 2012-2019 (F30, F32, F33, F34, F36)
      7. 2018+ (3-Series sub (G20, G22, G23, G24)
    3. 5 Series (E28, E34, E39, E60, E61, F10, G30)
      1. 1982 - 1988 (E28)
      2. 1988 - 1996 (E34)
      3. 1996 - 2003 (E39)
        1. E39 Touring / Wagon
      4. 2004-2010 (E60,E61)
      5. 2011-2016 (F10)
      6. 2017+ (G30)
    4. 6 Series (E24, E63, E64)
      1. 1976 - 1989 (E24)
      2. 2004+ (E63, E64, F06, F12, F13)
    5. 7 Series (E23, E32, E38, E65, E66, F01, F02)
      1. 1978 - 1987 (E23)
      2. 1988 - 1994 (E32)
        1. E32 Classifieds
      3. 1995 - 2001 (E38)
      4. 2002 - 2008 (E65, E66)
      5. 2009+ (F01,F02,G11,G12)
    6. 8 Series
      1. 8 Series (E31)
      2. 8 Series (G14,G15,G16)
    7. M series
      1. 2011 1 Series M Coupe (E82)
      2. 2016+ M2
      3. 1987 - 1991 M3 (E30)
      4. 1992 - 1999 M3 (E36)
      5. 1994 - 1999 Euro M3 (E36)
      6. 2001 - 2006 M3 (E46)
      7. 2008 - 2013 M3 (E90, E92, E93)
      8. 2014 - 2020 M3 & M4 (F80, F82, F83)
      9. 2021 M3 & M4 (G80, G82)
      10. 2000 - 2003 M5 and Z8 (E39, E52)
      11. 2006 - 2010 M5 & M6 (E60, E61, E63, E64)
      12. 2010-2016 M5 & M6 (F10, F12, F13)
    8. X Series (E84, E53, E70, E71, E83, F25)
      1. 2012+ X1, X2 (E84,F48)
      2. 2003+ X3, X4 (E83, F25, F26, F97, F98, G02)
      3. 1999+ X5, X6 (E53, E70, E71, F15, F16, G05, G06)
      4. 2020+ X7 (G07)
    9. Z Series
      1. 1996 - 2002 Z3 (E36/7, E36/8)
      2. 2002 - 2008 Z4 (E85, E86)
      3. 2009 - 2016 Z4 (E89)
      4. 2019+ Z4 (G29) / 2020+ Toyota Supra (A90/J29)
      5. Z3,Z4,Z8 Classifieds
    10. 2002
    11. MINI (Cooper & Cooper S)
    12. Classics
      1. 1968-1977 (E3, E9, E12)
      2. 1966-1974 2002
      3. Isetta
  • BMW Classifieds
    1. BMW Cars For Sale / Wanted
    2. BMW Parts For Sale
      1. Brake Kits, Rotors & Pads
      2. Car Audio & Electronics
      3. Drivetrain & Transmission Parts
      4. Engines, Performance Parts & Software
      5. Exterior Lighting & Body Parts
      6. Interior Lighting & Body Parts
      7. Suspensions, Springs & Shocks
      8. Whole Parts Cars
      9. Race Cars & Track Parts
      10. Forced & Chemical Induction Parts
      11. Wheels and Tires
    3. BMW Parts Wanted
    4. Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay
    5. Vendor Comments & Supporting Vendor Info
  • Regional Car Clubs & Events
    1. Regional Discussions & Events
      1. California sponsored by Avus Autosport
      2. Great Lakes - US
        1. Wisconsin
      3. Great Plains & Rocky Mountains - US
      4. Middle Atlantic - US
      5. New England - US
      6. New York / New Jersey / Connecticut
      7. Pacific Northwest - US
      8. Southeastern - US
        1. Carolinas
        2. Florida
        3. Louisiana
        4. Georgia sponsored by Harrison Motorsports
        5. Tennessee
      9. Southwestern - US
        1. Texas
        2. Oklahoma
        3. Utah
      10. Hawaii & Other Islands
      11. Australia / New Zealand
      12. Canada
      13. Europe
  • Off-Topic
    1. Photography & Multi Media
    2. Video Gaming
  • Forum Software & Other
    1. Announcements
    2. Forum Software Questions & Suggestions

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Sours: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/

Shuts bmw off then starts

Reasons Behind Your BMW’s Engine Stalling

Every time you get into your car, you trust that your vehicle will function properly without any failures. You might notice small annoyances like the air conditioner not working properly or the volume control being a bit finicky, but otherwise you trust that every time you turn your car on it will start and every time you turn your car off it’ll be ready to drive again when you are. That trust means that when your engine stalls, it can be incredibly overwhelming.

BMW Engine Stalling

There isn’t much that is more disturbing while driving your BMW than the engine suddenly stalling out while you’re driving. In some cases, it can even be dangerous, as it can happen in the middle of a crowded road, leaving you no way to get off the highway safely. There are a handful of reasons why your engine could stall even though everything else seems to be running just fine. It is important to understand that the most effective way to determine the issue and rectify it is to bring your vehicle in as soon as you notice something is wrong. Our team of professionals can help properly diagnose the problem, hopefully before your vehicle ever actually stalls on you.

Problems in the Fuel System

A problem with the fuel quality, your fuel supply, or your fuel injector could contribute to a fuel system problem resulting in your car stalling. If you have bad fuel in your tank, your combustion process in the engine won’t work efficiently. If there is water or contaminants found in your fuel it can result in a misfire.

A misfire takes place when your spark plug can’t properly fire and the fuel inside your engine isn’t able to burn. This can result in an engine stall. If your vehicle has an issue with the fuel pump, that means the engine doesn’t have enough fuel and it won’t be able to produce enough combustion to properly power the vehicle. If your engine has too much fuel, it floods the engine. That makes your spark plugs are too wet, meaning they can’t ignite the fuel in your cylinder so the engine receives no power.

Internal Timing Issues

You could also have an issue with the engine timing. A timing belt or chain is responsible for synchronizing the various parts of your engine so that everything runs smoothly. However, there are situations where there is a problem with the variable valve timing and its causes your engine to face one of the issues mentioned above, typically too little fuel or too much fuel. If your timing belt or chain skips, it can also cause your engine to stall.

Air Supply Problems

Air is very important for your engine. If your engine doesn’t have enough air, it won’t work properly. In order to achieve proper combustion your engine actually needs one part gasoline for every 15 parts air. If something is blocking the airflow in your engine, it can quickly cause stalling issues. Thankfully, this is generally an easy fix.

Ignition Switch Failure or Electrical Problems

One of the first symptoms of ignition switch failure is actually the stalling of your engine. It seems simple and potentially unrelated, but your engine could otherwise be working just fine while you are on the road and yet it stalls out of nowhere. You might be able to restart it a short while later with seemingly no problems. Your ignition switch has 3 different positions, and each position activates a different components within your vehicle. The second position turns on the power to your ignition and your fuel systems. If you have the start of ignition switch failure it could cut off this power while your vehicle is still operating and it will cause your engine to stall.

BMW M2 Engine

Electrical problems can also cause issues with engine stalling. Modern vehicles have electrical components and modules that oversee everything on the vehicle. Communication between all of these modules uses wiring. Even with the advanced technology that vehicles have today engines could still stall simply because some of the wires aren’t communicating. Issues like these require a trained technician to inspect and diagnose. There are specialized tools required for communication problems with electrical components.

If you need help with regular maintenance on your vehicle, call us at Ultimate Bimmer Service. We are located conveniently to both Carrolton and Dallas, TX, so come by or call to make an appointment today!

* BMW M2 Engine image credit goes to:teddyleung.

Sours: https://www.ultimatebimmerservice.com/reasons-behind-your-bmws-engine-stalling/
BMW WONT IDLE, ENGINE DIES STALLING BMW E46 E39 E60 E53 E83 X3 X5 Z3 Z4

.

Similar news:

.



1446 1447 1448 1449 1450